Malays. J. Anal. Sci. Volume 30 Number 4 (2026): 1664

Research Article

In vitro evaluation of the sun protection factor of Archidendron clypearia extract and optimization of an anti-collagenase serum formula using a simplex lattice design

Devi Putri Anggraini, Nabila Julidia Deswita Putri, Supomo^*, Yullia Sukawaty, and Eka Siswanto Syamsul

Sekolah Tinggi Ilmu Kesehatan Samarinda, 75124 Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Indonesia

^*Corresponding author: fahmipomo@gmail.com

Received: 28 August 2025; Revised: 18 June 2026; Accepted: 14 August 2026; Published: 30 August 2026

Abstract

Skin aging is associated with reduced elasticity caused by collagen degradation mediated by collagenase enzymes, and this process is accelerated by ultraviolet (UV) exposure. Natural-based serums are increasingly explored as multifunctional cosmetic products because they may provide both photoprotective and anti-aging effects. This study aimed to evaluate the in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the ethanol extract and n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and water fractions of Archidendron clypearia leaf and to optimize an anti-collagenase serum formulation using the Simplex Lattice Design (SLD). The effects of xanthan gum and triethanolamine concentrations on viscosity, spreadability, and pH were evaluated. At 400 ppm, the ethyl acetate fraction showed the highest SPF (38.44 ± 0.05; high), followed by the ethanol extract (33.40 ± 2.28; high), water fraction (21.75 ± 0.23; medium), and n-hexane fraction (8.54 ± 0.07; low). The optimized serum contained 1% xanthan gum and 0.5% triethanolamine and produced a desirability value of 1, viscosity of 1816.67 cPs, spreadability of 5.8 cm², and pH of 7.82. The deviation between predicted and experimental values was below 5%. The optimized serum containing 0.025% extract showed collagenase inhibitory activity with an IC₅₀ of 68.06 ppm. These findings indicate that A. clypearia leaf extract has potential as a natural cosmetic active ingredient; however, reference-controlled SPF testing, stability assessment, in vivo validation, and safety evaluation are required before practical use.

Keywords: Archidendron clypearia, collagenase, sun protection factor, simplex lattice design, serum

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